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North of Houston in the city of Tomball, Scott Moore Jr. might be the only chocolatier to become a pitmaster. This wasn’t his plan when he launched a bean-to-bar operation in 2015, but now it is the main reason why customers from all over line up on the porch of this quirky house before doors open. Flintstone-sized beef ribs with salt and pepper barks and melting threads of fat are a notable daily special (Friday only). Other highlights include snappy chile relleno sausages and lovely slices of USDA prime beef brisket, all of which emerge from barbecue pits parked under a shed next to a mountain of chopped wood. Sides are fairly standard, except for the excellent carrot soufflé, which straddles a fine, delicious line between sweet and savory.