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A complete top-to-toe refurbishment has left this former Victorian coaching inn looking fabulous, with an aesthetic that could be best described as shabby-chic meets Irish country house. The front bar has been retained, making this still feel very much like a pub, while the large, airy dining room provides a great setting for dishes that come free of gimmicks or over-elaboration, instead showing off the natural flavours of the produce, such as quality cod from the Irish Sea. There is a welcome originality too, as when offering beef cheeks in a bun instead of the classic pub burger.