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The Lobster Club marks the third act in the revamping of the old Four Seasons dining room, housed within the landmark Seagram Building. The interior now looks like a mod Japanese brasserie, thanks to a white onyx bar counter, pink and chartreuse upholstery, as well as walls hung with bold artwork. Chef Tasuku Murakami’s menu may be sizable, but it repeatedly returns to Japan for inspiration. Sample an array of teppanyaki, such as scallops, first grilled, then brushed with savory sauce and toasted sesame seeds; or charred vegetables like king oyster mushrooms and shishito peppers. Other favorites include seafood mains like gently cooked black bass in an herbaceous yuzu sauce.

Japanese whisky aficionados should head to the bar as it pours over 30 labels.