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This famed address hidden in the back corner of a Hell’s Kitchen grocery store has entered a new era under Chefs Max Natmessnig and Marco Prins. The room is a box of luxury and sparkles as bright as ever under the spotlights, with most guests seated at a glossy walnut counter that wraps around a brigade of cooks who have nowhere to hide. The team works quickly, sending out a volley of delicate tarts and bites that showcase skill and refinement. Highlights have included sea scallop in a lush brown butter sauce, turbot with firefly squid and herb-oil swirled buttermilk, and buri tartare with smoky creme fraiche and finger lime. All the while, an excellent service team keeps close watch from all corners of the room.