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Mad for Malaysian? Head to this lively dive, sequestered in a Chinatown arcade. Proffering some of the best Malaysian treats in town, including all the classics, this address sees a deluge of regulars who pour in for a massive offering of exceptional dishes. Round tables cram a room furnished with little more than a service counter. Still, the aromas wafting from flaky roti canai and melaka crispy coconut shrimp keep you focused on the food.

Capturing the essence of this nation are brusque servers who speedily deliver abundant and authentic bowls of spicy-sour asam laksa fragrant with lemongrass; kangkung belacan, greens with dried shrimp and chili; and nasi lemak, the national treasure starring coconut rice, chicken curry and dried anchovies.