A husband-and-wife team run this low-beamed former village pub with an unfussy, modern style. Across the tasting menu, the classically trained chef shows off his skill for getting the best from local, seasonal ingredients. His eye-catching dishes often shine brightest at their simplest, as with line-caught turbot accompanied by a delicious laverbread and chervil butter sauce. Go for the wine pairing and book one of the four cosy bedrooms to complete the experience.