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Thick or thin. Sauced or left bare. Traditional or irreverent. Pizza is the shape-shifter of the culinary world, with seemingly endless variations and an insatiable appetite for the newest iteration. Enter Pizzeria Sei, where individual pies are made with a Japan-meets-Italy flair. A handful of diners perch at the counter to watch the chefs hard at work prepping these savory treats. Wondering where the Japanese comes into play? It's the cornicione—with its trademark puffy pinch with a mochi-like chew. White pies are more offbeat, as in the Bismarck topped with a poached egg, while red pies lean more Italian. The Margherita is a go-to, topped with simple tomato, basil, fior di latte and olive oil, then cooked in a gas- and wood-fired oven.