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How many leafy greens and herbs can you name? At this minimally embellished Armenian bakery, watch as two seasoned chefs knead, roll out, and griddle a specialty flatbread stuffed with more than a dozen chopped varietals. It’s as if they’ve been doing this their entire lives, working with the likes of sorrel, spinach, scallions, and beet leaves to make a tight, forest-green lining that is at once sweet, sour, sharp, and refreshing.
It’s easy enough to eat one for a snack and several for a meal. Conveniently, there’s no need to guess what else to order here: The namesake dish is the only thing on the menu, besides a tangy yogurt drink chock-full of dill and cucumber, okroshka, and a simple square of paklava made with flaky phyllo and ground nuts.