‘Seasgair’ means ‘warm and cosy’ in Gaelic, and diners certainly feel cosseted in the impressive Inverlochy Castle. Begin with an aperitif in the Grand Hall, accompanied by a harpist. Once seated in one of the elegant dining rooms, the 5-course set menu is served to everyone at the same time. Dishes are refined and full of flavour, and Michel Roux Jr’s influence sees a few French touches added into the Scottish mix.