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It is impressive enough that Julia Momosé has built a worldclass cocktail bar featuring a dazzling collection of Japanese spirits. Servers and bartenders, both dressed in sharp black uniforms, are also so effortlessly warm and cheerful that you want to linger here for hours on end. Now, similar levels of intentionality and sophistication extend to the kitchen. A nicely pitched tasting menu highlights Japanese flavors and ingredients, most of which are seafood. Broth made from tilefish bones is remarkable in its depth, while white asparagus wrapped in tofu skin, grilled, and served with eggplant puree is delicate, original, and memorable. Drink pairings with and without spirits elevate an experience that is confidently fine-tuned.