Chef Mads Refslund is behind this ambitious, idiosyncratic operation. The striking, moody space has an "eco-chic" vibe calibrated to match a sustainable cuisine that reflects his Nordic pedigree. Diners opt between a shorter "Market Menu," where they select from a list of ingredients, each representing an individual dish, or leave things in the kitchen's hands with the "Field Guide Menu," a surprise tasting. Spanning wild-caught seafood like Jonah crab and deep-sea scallop, to game like squab and wild duck, products are of singular quality, with pure flavors accented by diverse accoutrements, from mandarinquat to hoja santa. A seat at the counter gives unhindered views of the at-times frenetic kitchen, matching the bustling feel of the room.