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The determination required to score a table can almost feel excessive. Almost. With lines perpetually wrapped around this corner of Fort Greene, Chef April Bloomfield returns with familiar dishes that hew to the seasons and boast maximum flavor with minimum fuss. Who knew eggs with celery salt and mayonnaise could be this good? The Caesar salad, Swiss chard, and roast chicken all hit their marks. Some of these are only available during dinner when reservations are in limited supply. Lunch has its benefits too: The spring onion and goat gouda quiche is peerless, plus there’s a superb burger and a towering stack of French fries. All the while, sun beams through the skylight of a bistro that seems well on its way to becoming a neighborhood classic.