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The beauty of dining at this noodle house is that you don’t have to guess what they’re good at—the menu is brief, and everything you really need to know is in the name. But, their eight tables fill quickly so plan ahead.

This kitchen focuses entirely on slinging noodles inspired by the cuisine of China’s famed Shanxi Province, so start with a chilled bowl of these gelatinous strands slathered with sesame-peanut sauce and the tingling heat of house-made chili oil. Then move on to the slender “wife special” noodles, with their springy, toothsome texture mixing with bits of crisped pork belly and fermented soy sauce. While dumplings are absolutely worth the order, also keep room for savoring some of the chef’s special fried noodles.